To me there are few places in Europe as captivating and diverse as Portugal's Algarve region. Tucked away in the sun-drenched southernmost corner of the country, the Algarve is a world of golden beaches, dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and charming whitewashed towns. This is a place where history, surf culture, and natural beauty merge effortlessly, creating a destination to slow down and explore on your own pace.Why take a road trip through the Algarve? Simply put, it offers one of the most stunning coastal drives in the world. From the wild, untamed cliffs of Sagres—a paradise for surfers chasing Atlantic swells—to the tranquil, turquoise waters of the eastern shores near Tavira, the Algarve is a land of contrasts. You’ll pass through bustling seaside towns and remote fishing villages, winding through olive groves, vineyards, and rolling hills. Immerse yourself in the region’s vibrant surf culture and get treated to some of the freshest, most mouthwatering local cuisine.Surf spots like Arrifana, Amado, and Carrapateira offer world-class waves, attracting both seasoned surfers and beginners alike, while inland, cozy tascas (local eateries) serve up traditional dishes that are a feast for the senses. Think grilled sardines fresh from the Atlantic, savory cataplana stews brimming with seafood, and pastel de nata paired with a strong espresso after a sun-soaked day on the beach.Exploring the Algarve by car gives you the freedom to explore every hidden gem at your own pace, uncovering the Algarve’s many layers beyond the postcard-perfect beaches. In this next article I’ll guide you through this sun-soaked paradise, sharing insider tips, hidden spots, and must-see destinations that will make your journey truly remarkable.
First stop, Olhão! This charming coastal town was the perfect place to start our 3 week itinerary through the Algarve. Located along the Ria Formosa lagoon, a natural reserve that is home to a diverse ecosystem of birds, marine life, and wetlands. The town lies about 8 kilometers east of Faro, the capital of the Algarve. Olhão has historically been a fishing village, and its economy still revolves around fishing and seafood, though tourism has grown in recent years. The town's old quarter is full of narrow, winding streets and traditional Portuguese architecture. The Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário, built in the 17th century, is one of its central historical landmarks. Olhão is also a gateway to the “Ria Formosa Natural Park”, a stunning protected area made up of islands, sandbanks, and channels. It's a paradise for nature lovers, especially birdwatchers, as it hosts many migratory species.The park also provides a buffer between the town and the Atlantic Ocean, creating calm waters ideal for fishing and oyster farming.
Armona Island is one of the closest to Olhão, and it’s easy to reach by a short ferry ride. Armona is known for its long, white sandy beaches and shallow, clear waters. The island is car-free, giving it a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere. There are a few holiday homes, beach bars, and local restaurants, making it an ideal spot for a quiet day of relaxation. Armona Beach: The ocean side of the island boasts expansive beaches with clean, golden sand and crystal-clear waters. It’s perfect for families, and the lagoon side has warmer, shallower waters, great for wading or paddleboarding. You can also explore the island on foot via trails that lead to different beach spots and quiet areas away from the crowds.
One of the town's main attractions is its iconic waterfront market. This market is housed in two large, red-brick buildings and is renowned for its fresh seafood. The market is a bustling hub, especially on Saturdays when local farmers bring in fresh produce. The town is filled with restaurants known for its seafood, especially oysters, clams, and sardines. Many local restaurants offer traditional Algarve dishes like “cataplana de marisco” (a seafood stew cooked in a copper pot).
About 25 kilometers west of Olhão, a 25-30 minute drive, Austa is a contemporary restaurant in Almancil, Algarve, blending a farm-to-table philosophy with Mediterranean influences. Its seasonal menu focuses on locally sourced ingredients, including vegetables from its own garden and fresh catches from the Atlantic. Austa offers a relaxed dining experience with breakfast, lunch, and dinner service, and is known for its small-batch, natural wines and craft cocktails. It's located about 25 kilometers west of Olhão, a 25-30 minute drive, making it easily accessible for those exploring the Algarve.
Tucked away in the picturesque fishing town of Olhão, Casa Rosa is a beautifully restored boutique guesthouse that perfectly blends tradition with modern comfort. Located just steps from the vibrant markets and the sparkling waters of the Ria Formosa, Casa Rosa offers guests an intimate escape, with its blush-pink facade, lush courtyard, and rooftop terrace overlooking the town’s iconic rooftops. It was the ideal base for exploring Olhão!
Béja: Discovering the Heart of Alentejo
After our vibrant stop in Olhão, we set our sights inland toward Béja, a charming town nestled in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Known for its vast golden plains, medieval architecture, and slower pace, Béja offers an authentic slice of rural Portugal that feels beautifully removed from the coast’s bustling rhythm. Our stay at Lobeira Guesthouse was a true retreat. This Airbnb gem captures the soul of the Alentejo with a blend of rustic charm and modern comforts. Surrounded by olive groves and open landscapes, Lobeira offered the perfect place to unwind and take in Béja’s tranquil atmosphere. The interiors were designed thoughtfully with natural materials and soft, earthy tones that mirrored the colors of the Alentejo, making it feel effortlessly inviting and harmonious.
Lisbon: A Whirlwind Stop in the City of Light
After Béja, we decided to shake up our itinerary with a last-minute detour to Lisbon. It was only one night, but adding this vibrant city was one of the best choices we made! Lisbon’s energy was infectious, and our short visit turned out to be a perfect mix of sightseeing, local flavors, and spontaneous discovery. We kicked off our morning with the sunrise at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, where the golden light spilled over the city’s terracotta rooftops and the Tagus River. From there, we wandered through Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, with its narrow, winding streets and charming tile-covered buildings.
No stop in Lisbon is complete without pastel de nata, so we indulged at Casa São Miguel—a cozy spot to try this iconic pastry fresh from the oven. Another favorite spot for these custard delights is Manteigaria, a bit further away but worth it for true nata lovers. In the afternoon, we enjoyed an apéritif at Cat & O Corvo, a laid-back wine bar that’s great for soaking in the city’s lively atmosphere. Right next door, Cantinho do Aziz offered us a culinary journey with flavorful African dishes that were a hit with the kids, too.
The next day, we wrapped up our whirlwind stay with lunch at Ponto Final, a hidden gem across the river in Almada. Right on the waterfront, this spot serves up delicious Portuguese dishes with one of the best views of Lisbon’s skyline. Ponto Final is popular, but arriving 30 minutes before opening meant we snagged a table without a reservation—a small travel trick that made for the perfect ending to our spontaneous Lisbon escape.
A slow week at Craveiral Farmhouse
Following our energetic city stop in Lisbon, we settled into the serene paradise of Craveiral Farmhouse for a week. Nestled in the Alentejo countryside, Craveiral feels like its own world, blending farmhouse charm with sustainable luxury. Days here felt blissfully slow-paced, from the kids exploring the farm and gardens to quiet evenings around the fire. It was a refreshing escape that gave us time to recharge and connect with the surrounding nature.
During our week at Craveiral, we decided to revisit a part of the Rota Vicentina, a trail my husband and I started walking two years ago. We’d already completed two sections of this stunning coastal path and thought it was the perfect time to share a piece of it with the kids.Starting in Zambujeira do Mar, we hiked the 15 kilometers to Cavaleiro, retracing familiar cliffs and taking in those wild ocean views that had left such an impression on us.The trail was well-marked and family-friendly, with plenty of spots to rest, breathe in the salty air, and enjoy a picnic with unbeatable ocean views.
Aljezur: Surf Days and laid-back beach vibes
After a peaceful week at Craveiral, we continued our journey to Aljezur—our favorite corner of the Algarve. We had four days of surfing lined up at Monte Clérigo, ready to dive into the waves and embrace the laid-back surf culture.Our surf house sat above Monte Clérigo in a neighborhood that felt like a slice of California, with its chilled vibe, palmtrees, white houses and sandy trails leading down to the beach. Each morning, we headed out for lessons with Aljezur Surf School, catching waves and soaking up the thrill of learning something new.The afternoons became our time to explore the coastline, hopping between the local beaches like Arrifana and Praia da Amoreira. Arrifana had a livelier scene with its iconic surf spots and cliffside views, while Amoreira offered a calmer retreat, perfect for the kids to play and us to unwind. Between surf sessions, beach days, and quiet sunsets from our hilltop surf house, our days in Aljezur were all about soaking up the relaxed pace and endless beauty of this spot in the Algarve. It was a rhythm we could easily get used to!
Vila do Bispo & our final days in the Algarve
Our final days in the Algarve took us to Vila do Bispo, a quiet yet charming town close to some truly special spots. We spent a day at Praia do Barranco, a beach with a deep personal significance—it was my dad’s favorite place. Being there always brings a sense of closeness to him, and it was meaningful to share that moment with my family.
From Vila do Bispo, we also embarked on an unforgettable mountain biking adventure with Musette Bikes. Jerom, the owner, led us through the rugged trails with such passion and enthusiasm that he made each stop along the way feel like a discovery. His deep knowledge of the area, from hidden paths to stunning viewpoints, brought the landscape to life in a way we’d never experienced before. His energy and insights made the day not just active but genuinely inspiring.
We capped off our journey with a farm-to-table dinner at Morgado do Quintão, surrounded by vineyards and centuries-old olive trees. It was the perfect setting to savor our last night, reflecting on a beautiful three weeks. Knowing we’ll soon call this incredible region home made the farewell bittersweet, but it’s comforting to know that so many new adventures and memories await us here.
