There are places you visit. And then there are places that quietly become part of your story.After dropping my son off at Faro Airport, I drove east towards Luz de Tavira, where Alexandra and Alberto welcomed me to Luz Retreat. I had come to photograph their beautiful off-grid studio, but before I had even unpacked my camera, they suggested something else."Let's take the boat."Within minutes we were gliding across the calm waters of the Ria Formosa in their little wooden boat, together with their son and some friends. As if it were the most natural thing in the world.We crossed to one of the sandbanks where me met more friends, enjoying one of those perfect Algarve summer evenings. A beach entirely to ourselves. Bare feet in the sand. Children playing in the water. No restaurants. No beach clubs. Just people gathering because that's simply what you do.I hadn't expected my stay to begin like this.
The Portugal I had been looking for
Sometimes you discover a place through its landscape. Sometimes through its people. That evening gave me something I hadn't realised I was missing.The return boat trip, just after sunset, was almost impossible to describe. The sky slowly shifted from warm orange to soft pink and deep blue while the water mirrored every colour above us.The Ria Formosa became completely still. There was no music. No engines racing past. Only the sound of the water beneath the boat.
It was one of those rare moments where happiness feels almost tangible. The kind that asks absolutely nothing from you.
Back at Luz Retreat, dinner was being prepared. Fresh fish on the barbecue.A long wooden table.Family.Friends.Stories.
I had only met Alexandra and Alberto a few hours before, yet somehow it felt as though I'd known them for years. There is something incredibly special about people who make hospitality feel effortless. No performance. No formalities. Just genuine warmth. As we sat together, sharing freshly caught fish prepared in the simplest possible way, I couldn't help but think of my father. Portugal had always held a special place in his heart. Whenever he travelled here, he would send my sisters and me long whatsapp messages filled with stories about the people he had met, the meals he had shared and the places that had left an impression on him. I caught myself smiling, thinking how much he would have loved this evening.
After a wonderfully quiet night in the studio, breakfast was already waiting outside.No rush. Fresh fruit. Coffee. Homemade touches. One of the things I appreciated most about Luz Retreat was exactly this rhythm. Nothing felt scheduled. Everything invited you to simply slow down. The studio itself reflects that same philosophy. Thoughtfully designed with natural materials and soft, calming tones, it invites you to slow down from the moment you arrive. Outside, the old train still passes by a few times a day at its own gentle pace, with the Ria Formosa stretching out in the distance. It's one of those unexpected details that gives this place its own quiet character.Less like a holiday rental, and more like being welcomed into someone else's way of life.
Exploring the Eastern Algarve
One of the reasons Luz Retreat makes such a wonderful base is its location. Within minutes you're surrounded by some of the Algarve's most authentic villages.I decided to hop on the scooter and simply see where the day would take me.
If there's one village you shouldn't miss, it's Santa Luzia. Often called “Portugal's octopus capital*, this quiet fishing village still feels wonderfully untouched. Along the waterfront you'll see rows of traditional clay pots used for octopus fishing, while small family-run restaurants prepare recipes that have been passed down through generations. It's a place where life still follows the tides rather than the clock. From here you can also catch the small ferry to Praia da Terra Estreita or Praia do Barril, two of the quietest beaches in the Algarve.
No visit to this part of Portugal is complete without wandering through Tavira. Cross the Roman bridge. Lose yourself in the small cobbled streets.Browse the independent shops. And if you happen to visit on the first Saturday of the month, don't miss the local antique market, where you'll find beautiful Portuguese ceramics, vintage treasures and handmade pieces that feel impossible to leave behind.For coffee or lunch, make sure to stop at Café Formosa, one of those places you'll wish existed in your own neighbourhood.
More than a place to stay
Luz Retreat isn't simply somewhere to sleep. It's an invitation to experience a slower, more authentic side of the Algarve.One where strangers quickly become friends. Where evenings end around a shared table. Where boats replace busy roads.And where you remember that sometimes, happiness can be as simple as watching the last colours disappear over the Ria Formosa.
